The Great Bay Boardwalk, Sint Maarten
This was to be our final stopping off point in the Caribbean Sea and, as it happens, was to be our last touching land until disembarkation in Southampton.
We weren’t to know it, but a stormy Atlantic would put pay to us calling in at the Azores on the way home. This would give us a horrendous ten days at sea without leaving MS Queen Victoria.
It would be like being stuck on a Victorian-era prison ship for so long. Some folk love being on the ship ad infinitum but, thanks to my lack of vision, it is not for me. I will come onto that in a future episode.
The island was first sighted by Christopher Columbus, who else, on 11th November 1493, during his second voyage, so he named it Isla de San Martin. No surprise there, you might think, it was his want to call these islands after the saint on whose day they were discovered.
One problem, though, he also came across another island on the same day and, forgetting himself in all the excitement, he also called that St Martin.
Sometime later, cartologists mapping the area realised that there were two places with the same name. The other island had been nicknamed Nevis by Columbus’ crew and, in the end, this stuck, fortunately for us in the modern era.
It amazes me how it is old Chris who always takes the credit for spotting these islands first of all. Do you really think he would be up in the crow’s nest, shielding his eyes from a blazing, destructive sun, the telescope wouldn’t appear until 1608, bellowing out, “Land ahoy!”?
I’m not sure I buy that one. Why would he when he had dispensable underlings who could come crashing down to deck for him.
Confusion still reigns. Add a few French and Dutch folk into the equation who divided this tiny bit of land into two. They split the 87 square kilometres, roughly 60 40 respectively. So, in effect you can visit two separate countries in one place that is smaller than the Isle of Wight. In fact, St Martin would fit onto the Isle of Wight about four-and-a-half times over.
We had landed in the Dutch quarter in the port of its capital, Philipsburg. We certainly didn’t tarry when disembarking and were soon mingling with the throngs along the main strip. Incredibly we were greeted by the usual array of artisan traders, somewhat different to a British seaside resort, such as Ganja shops, rum-punch bars and inevitably, the toxic-ink tattoo studios.
Has anyone ever thought to study what effect pumping the skin full of these chemicals has on oncological health? Don’t get me started! Has anyone else ever thought about this?
We strolled along the front, arm-in-arm, not from any romantic bent but more a guiding the blind point of view.
All of a sudden Jane made a beeline for one of the bars. Right, I thought, time to fill one’s boots, rum punches at eight in the morning. Who wanted to see another rainforest, mountain or plantation anyway? They would probably be the same as everywhere else.
Alas, we were not calling in for a libation, she had espied another couple from the ship, who shall remain nameless, knocking back post-breakfast cocktails. How civilised is that? In fact, I am not sure they had even wasted time on breakfast, especially given that we didn’t hang about that morning. Who am I to cast nasturtiums? It is rather unseemly.
In short, we didn’t do much of anything. We sauntered, without the fuel of rum punches it has to be said, through the narrow lanes and streets of this delightful little port. It reminded me of the old seafaring settlements in Devon or Cornwall, except a tad chillier than the summer we have just had.
It is hard to explain to the many souls who left our shores for a better life in Australia, New Zealand or some other faraway place, that the Caribbean, in general, is cooler than an English summer.
That reminds me, did anyone see the advert from the Italian Tourist Board inviting British residents to visit Amalfi to escape our summer heat? How things change! How long will that one last?
I will outline some of the attractions we could have visited had we been so minded and, indeed, you might consider should you find yourself washed up here.
A plane coming in over Moho Beach, Sint Maarten
Let’s start with Moho Beach. One of the joys of soaking up the sun here is that you can enjoy jetliners coming in, just above your head, to land at Princess Juliana International Airport. If that’s the highlight I am not really sure what the lowlights are.
Returning to your hotel room covered in kerosene doesn’t strike me as a great day out. My opinion only, it might well be right up your street. If it is, knock yourself out, unless the inhalation of fumes gets you first.
One attraction that might hit the spot, and I am truly sorry to have missed this one, is the steepest zip-line in the world, christened The Flying Dutchman.
In a similar vein, there is the tube slide dessent of Sentry Hill. No, me neither. Apparently, it is the joy of going downhill inside a plastic circle or doughnut. There are centres around the UK where you can take part in this recreational joy. Sounds a wee bit on the dangerous side, perhaps after a dose of recreational Ganja it might take on a less daunting feel.
Obviously, it is the island with everything. You do either at your own risk, I am not responsible for what you, as fully-fledged grown-ups, do in your own time.
After taking in the Great Bay Boardwalk, so named because it is a boardwalk that follows the Great Bay, I wonder how long it took them to come up with that one, we did take a turn around the Front Street duty free shopping area.
We had some cigars to acquire for a friend who had kept a watch eye on the house while we were away.
The young lady assistant showed us her wares, and I was bowled over with her knowledge of the tobacco industry. There were all sorts: short ones, long ones, thin ones, fat ones, whatever took your fancy. She offered me the chance to try out what she had to offer.
“No thank you,” I responded, trying not to sound too disapprovingly tart.
I could have them soaked in a spirit of my choice or opt for plain. They could be strong, medium or mild. Talk about baffling. She showed us her favourites, the ones she liked to consume after a stressful day in the shop.
Apparently, there is nothing better than sitting on a terrace watching the sun set behind a cloud of smoke with a cold beer or rum punch. Quite surprisingly, she appeared amazingly healthy. Perhaps there is some unknown benefit to being unhealthy. So, we bought a pack of three, all different sizes and shapes.
Find Out More
Sint Maarten Tourist Information: https://www.vacationstmaarten.com
White Cane (🦯) Ratings*©
Front Street: good; a few minor level discrepancies - 🦯 🦯 🦯 (3)
Streets and lanes: average; all of a sudden, steps seem to appear from nowhere - 🦯 🦯 (2)
Great Bay Boardwalk: good; pretty accessible - 🦯 🦯 🦯 (3)
The Red Mount, King's Lynn
THE RED MOUNT, KING'S LYNN
Ever since we started doing parkrun in The Walks, the wonderful prize-winning urban park of our adopted hometown, King’s Lynn, I have been intrigued by the Red Mount. What is it? Why is it there? Who built it? What was it for?
Well, thanks to Jane’s membership of the Soroptimist International movement, don’t worry it’s not a prescribed group, we were given a personal guided tour. See, it is often who you know and not what you know.
Late one evening, in early October, we had the absolute pleasure and good fortune of catching up with Derek Wilkins, a veritable font of knowledge when it comes to the story behind this incredible landmark. How jammy was I to be given this personal guided tour; do you see what I did there.
The structure, formally known as The Chapel of St Mary on the Mount, nicknamed The Red Mount Chapel, was built by a fellow named Robert Currunt and commissioned by a noteworthy by the name of William Spynke.
It was built upon an existing mound, part of the old town defences of the then Bishop’s Lynn and completed in 1485.
Just bear in mind that year, it was the same year that a battle took place in a hitherto unknown field in Leicestershire that would not only change the regnal and political landscape of England but would also curtail the intended life of the chapel itself. It would have a profound effect on the port town as well, changing its identity forevermore.
The building utilised the relatively new technological advance at the time, it was just beginning to become more widespread, of building with bricks made from clay. The builders used red bricks for the outer face of the chapel with the later added innards using the more trusted stone. It was clearly well built having stood the test of time for five-and-a-half centuries.
This is truly amazing given that the bricks were all handmade and when fired were not anywhere close to the modern nine-inch brick in hardness. Perhaps the softer product was more flexible, hence the buildings are longer lasting compared with the less sustainable erections of modern times.
Spynke, a governor at the town’s St Margaret’s Priory, now the Minster, ordered its construction as an official stopping off point and waystation along the route for pilgrims headed to the Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, only second behind Canterbury in importance of England’s pilgrimages.
When you look at it today, it makes perfect sense built, as it is, alongside the A47, very handy. Devotees of the tale could rest and feed, in exchange for some coins, before starting on their journeys again. It is not thought to be the equivalent of a modern-day Premier Inn in that it does not appear to have hosted guests overnight.
The building is divided into three sections, supposedly representing the death of Christ. I am not sure whether this is apocryphal or not as Derek didn’t actually refer to this.
The ground floor represents Jesus’ tomb and, to be fair, you can, sort of, see this as you pass through a low-ceilinged tunnel to gain entry, it is not beyond one’s imagination to envisage a stone blocking the entrance to be later rolled away. The second floor is meant to imitate the empty tomb after His rising. Finally, the top storey is meant to show the glory of the ascension into Heaven.
The upper floors are accessed via an exquisite stone helical staircase leading to the first floor before mounting a timber set of stairs for the final ascent. You make your way down using a second independent route. I have no idea why, but it reminded me of Topol’s song, “If I Were a Rich Man” from “Fiddler on the Roof,” especially these two lines:
There would be one long staircase just going up. And one even longer coming down.
In truth, I have no idea if the one coming down is longer or not. Sorry, it’s just the way my mind works.
After Richeldis’ sighting of the Virgin Mary at Walsingham went viral, you note she didn’t keep it as her own little secret. I don’t think there would be any doubt in the modern world, Richeldis would be among the most celebrated influencers in Christendom.
I know I should never doubt what a noble lady of such high status says but, as usual, where are the witnesses? She ordered the construction of the church at Little Walsingham that held an uncanny resemblance to that in Nazareth. Somehow, Mary whisked Richeldis away to Nazareth, I assume Norwich Airport wasn’t closed for strikes, where she took exact measurements of the place where the annunciation was made to Mary that she was with child. You know the rest.
The Red Mount only carried on as a waystation for about fifty years. Here we go, back to Bosworth Field in Leicestershire. Richard III, before his unceremonious dumping in a Leicester car park, was laying, slain, on the ground.
The victor that day was none other than Henry VII who went onto spawn the man who destroyed the Catholic church in England with his Dissolution of the Monasteries. The shrine at Walsingham Parva suffered the indignity of demolition and, so, the Red Mount was out of business. Bishop’s Lynn, not wishing to suffer Henry VIII’s wrath soon changed its name to King’s Lynn. Good choice.
The building was repurposed at various times during the subsequent years. Uses included as a gunpowder store during the Civil War and as a charnel house for victims of the Great Plague in the mid-seventeenth century.
Organised tours can be booked for a most enlightening tour of this Grade I listed building.
Find Out More
https://www.thewalks.uk
Soroptimists International – King’s Lynn: https://www.sigbi.org/kings-lynn
White Cane (🦯 ) Ratings*©
The Red Mount: average; definitely need a companion - 🦯 🦯 (2)